Margazhi Veedhi Bhajanai and rose milk are my favourites in Chennai, says Carnatic vocalist Papanasam Ashok Ramani

“The Mylapore Kapaleeswarar temple and the Margazhi Bhajanai around the four Maada Veedhis (mada streets) have been my constant source of inspiration,” says Carnatic vocalist Papanasam Ashok Ramani .

“I am a Mad Madrasi and will remain so always!! I grew up on Srinivasan Street in Mandaveli, the heart of Madras, and from the age of five, my mother would wake me at 4.30 a.m., saying, “Wake up, we need to go for Bhajanai, thatha has already gone.” I agreed readily, but only if I was promised rose milk from Kalathi Kadai.”

“I still remember holding my mother’s hand and walking around the streets as the Bhajanai began at the 18-kaal mandapam. I stood there wide-eyed, watching great stalwarts—Dr. S. Ramanathan, Calcutta Krishnamurthy, and K.V. Narayanaswamy—not realizing that I would one day learn music from them. At Valleeswarar temple I waited for “Paal Maama” with hot milk, and at Vijaya Stores I saw vidwans gather. At Indian Bank, I got my first chance to sing in their presence—a turning point in my life.”

“Even as I longed for rose milk, I found myself drawn deeper into the bhajanai tradition. On the final day inside the temple, when sakkarai pongal and venn pongal were served, I felt sheer joy. At nine, I became a pupil of my mother and grandfather, Papanasam Sivan, learning “Janaki Pathe” and singing it at the bhajanai.”

“I continue to feel the divine aura of Goddess Karpagambal and Kapaleeswarar guiding my life with energy, joy, and inspiration. To this city, Madras, I owe my everything and will be eternally grateful to God for placing me here.”

(As told to Deepa H. Ramakrishnan)