For nearly a century, Veeraswamy, the oldest surviving Indian restaurant in London, has been the embodiment of the close cultural relationship between India and the United Kingdom. The restaurant, which has been in operation since 1926, has been instrumental in bringing Indian cuisine from various parts of the country to the people of the United Kingdom, even before Indian cuisine became popular in the United Kingdom.
However, the legendary Indian restaurant is facing one of the greatest challenges to its existence, and thousands of the restaurant’s supporters have come out to start a petition to King Charles III in the hope of saving the legendary restaurant from closure owing to a dispute over the lease.
Veeraswamy: The century-old Indian restaurant at the centre of the dispute
Founded in 1926 by Edward Palmer, an Anglo-Indian entrepreneur with royal Indian lineage, Veeraswamy was originally created to introduce authentic Indian flavours to British diners.
Over time, the restaurant developed into a culinary landmark in London. The restaurant changed from serving Anglo-Indian cuisine popular during the British Raj to serving a wide variety of cuisine, including Indian cuisine from various Indian states, such as Punjab, Kashmir, and other parts of India.
The prestige of the restaurant has continued to rise over the years. The restaurant has been patronised by royalty, politicians, and other celebrities, and in 2016, the restaurant was awarded a Michelin star, validating its reputation as one of the best Indian restaurants in the UK.
Why Veeraswamy is facing closure
The restaurant is facing a crisis due to a dispute with the Crown Estate, which owns the building where the restaurant is situated on Regent Street. The Crown Estate reportedly decided not to renew the restaurant’s lease because it plans to redevelop the building and expand the entrance to offices located above it. According to the BBC, restaurant co-owner Ranjit Mathrani said he has asked the King to help save Veeraswamy “from extinction”, and said not renewing the lease was “short-sighted”.
If the lease is not renewed, Veeraswamy could be forced to vacate its historic location despite operating there for nearly 100 years. The restaurant’s owners argue that the decision threatens a major piece of Britain’s culinary and cultural heritage.
Petition to King Charles gains thousands of supporters
In response, campaigners launched a public petition asking King Charles III to intervene or encourage a reconsideration of the decision. More than 20,000 people have signed the petition, which was delivered to Buckingham Palace. Supporters include prominent chefs such as Raymond Blanc, Michel Roux and Richard Corrigan.
The appeal highlights Veeraswamy’s historical significance and its role in shaping Britain’s love for Indian cuisine. However, Buckingham Palace has clarified that the monarch does not have authority over the Crown Estate’s commercial leasing decisions, meaning the King cannot directly reverse the move. Still, campaigners hope his symbolic influence might encourage discussions to preserve the restaurant.
To many, Veeraswamy is so much more than a restaurant. The restaurant has been a major cultural link between Britain and India for many years, serving Indian cuisine, which was little known in Britain at the time. The restaurant has been privileged to host some incredible guests, including politicians, royalty, and other global personalities, and has become a symbol of Britain’s multicultural culinary heritage.
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