For centuries (presumably), the answer to the question ‘What do we do now?’ posed by restless children, bored teenagers, and crotchety senior citizens in Madras, to their family and friends has been, ‘Let’s go to the beach’. Chennai’s long, winding coastline offers the city its biggest open-air, free entertainment zone — a democratised space of salt, sea breezes, and sundal, where entertainment doesn’t have to be looked for — it just is.
The coastline is rich in its offerings. One loose bookend to the south is DakshinaChitra in Muttukadu. Begun as a project of the Madras Craft Foundation in the 1980s, it opened to the public in 1996, showcasing south Indian art and culture, a veritable treasure trove to feast the eyes on (and shop at), for both visitors and locals. For those with a stronger inclination towards what nature offers, the northern bookend, Pulicat, with boat rides and the thrill of spotting a flamingo or a migratory bird in season, may be the way to go.
For about three decades beginning in 1991, Chennaiites had the luxury of an open-air theatre: the iconic Prarthana drive-in theatre in Injambakkam, which however, permanently closed in 2023. That hasn’t stopped film screenings on the sands though, alongside beach concerts, musical shows, poetry readings, and other events, big and small.
The water offers boundless entertainment as well. While swimming is prohibited on Chennai’s beaches due to dangerous undercurrents, there are numerous water sports. From boating in the backwaters to surfing in Kovalam, which has become a top destination for the sport, eFoiling, kayaking, sailing, stand-up paddling, and wakeboarding — name any sport, and you could probably do it on Chennai’s coast.
But, arguably, the best of pleasures could be found on the beaches themselves. Perhaps, there’s something about the water lapping the sand that’s magical.
Even on a damp weekday evening, there is no dearth of people at Marina Beach. A father and daughter towel themselves dry after a quick dip in the ocean, children frolic about on the playground equipment, while younger tots dig furiously in the sand, filling and upturning buckets. Ponies whinny and paw the sand, their owners look for the adventurous to take a ride, balloon shooters set up their stalls, and merry-go-rounds whirr about to the accompaniment of delighted shrieks.
For 13-year-old M. Divya and her friend, the beach is the place to be, even though it involves travelling from Puzhal, where they live. A usual evening out for the girls involves playing in the park, getting their feet wet in the waves, eating spring potato and soan papdi, and photographing each other. “We come about four to five times a month,” says Divya.
There is something on offer for everyone: toddlers wave around bubble wands, older children fling frisbees and play sports, adults scroll through their phones or leaf through books, and the even elderly lounge on benches, simply watching the world go by. For the artistic-minded, there’s sand art to experiment with, the endlessly fascinating sea to paint, or the sunset (or rise) to photograph. For animal lovers, there are turtle walks to meander about during the season, or dogs to chase in the surf. For the romantic, the stars and a backdrop of the glorious Bay of Bengal. For those seeking leisure in solitude, the crowds offer anonymity. Snacks are available in abundance, and as a bonus, you could have your fortune told. In the past, the sands also played host to the robust games of cricket, football, and frisbee.
Mornings are filled with activity – Chennai’s famously energetic walkers, yoga and exercise classes, and sports practices abound, just as the city stirs for its early cup of filter coffee. But evenings are the best — just when the sun begins to sink, the sands turn golden, and the whiff of reheated coffee in steel canteens permeates the air.
As 10-year-old D.M. Dhyanesh puts it when asked what he likes about the Marina, “It’s just the sea”.
Published – August 27, 2026 11:38 pm IST
